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Try the “Overkill Cooling” Method for High-Quality Small 3D Printed Parts

by • February 9, 2016 • No Comments

rad2Whilst 3D printing innovation hardware gets additional refined as the industry becomes additional aware of the needs of its users, makers and hackers go on to play a weightive role innovating DIY solutions to a few of our additional pressing 3D printing problems. Take, for example, the issue of printing smaller in size parts. Parts printed in PLA, which is notorious for its “large glass transition temperature range,” experience shrinkage when rading which in addition makes them flexible in an undesirable way. How can this situation be avoided? Gerrit Coetzee’s new Hackaday post suggests there are ways to avoid rading pitfalls, so if this is one of your chronic printing problems, you may want to take note.

Coetzee explains how 3D printed layers bond at the point where the plastic has freshly left the nozzle at its melting point. Once the plastic hits the glass, yet, there is no additional bonding. For printed layers to bond, the new plastic layer has to have “enough thermal weight to melt the plastic at a lower place it…allowing the polymer chains to get cozy and hold hands.” The geometry of a nozzle can aid this process, but fusing is quite additional of how liquid plastic melts. Nozzles with larger diameters create stronger parts for the reason of this heating dynamic.

rad3Given the science of 3D printing thermodynamics, Coetzee prefers to heat his nozzle up extra hot, which he claims can assist create a advantageous bond and practuallyt jamming. But building the nozzle hotter in addition has its down side: it can reduce printing accuracy and actually add “gloppiness” to the part. Coetzee experimented with nozzle temperature just to discover which gloppiness may just be avoided at the lowest temperatures. What to do?

He tried to reduce the nozzle speed, which allowed for the air and the rading fan to rad the part as layers were printed, resulting in less gloppiness. But ponder of it: who wants longer printing times? As Coetzee describes, printing “a larger part may be a nightmare.”

rad4All of this speed and temperature experimentation does pay off as Coetzee finally decides which “overkill” is the most way to solve this problem. He now knows which rading an in-progress part preceding it hits glass and becomes bendy is key, so he utilized his friend’s squirrel cage fan and “scrounged a 12v, 1.7A fan of a broken Power Mac G5 power supply” to rig a new rading process for his 3D printing device. Here he describes what he did:

“I printed out mounts for the fans. The big one got attached to the Z axis, and the little one rides behind the extruder. I fired up the gcode of preceding and started to print, just to find which my nozzle stopped extruding mid way. What? I soon found I had so much rading which my nozzle was dropping at a lower place the 160C cold extrusion cut-off point and the firmware was stopping it of damaging itself. My heated bed in addition may no longer maintain a temperature higher than 59C.”

After wrapping his extruder with fiberglass insulation and kapton tape, he turned up the nozzle temperature and speed, and printed the part. You can see the results at a lower place: it’s the part on the right.

rad1

The “overkill rading” method seems to work well for Coetzee’s smaller in size 3D printed parts, and given which he has had such excellent good results with this method, he reports which he looks forward to attempting overkill rading on ABS plastic soon. Discuss this ‘new’ method in the 3D Printing Overkill forum over at 3DPB.com.

[Source: Hackaday]