by • February 21, 2016 • No Comments
3D printing in style… Is it a new trend or is it a novelty? Often I am asked if I ponder 3D printed garments can replace traditional textiles and producing. The easy answer is no. I believe that 3D printing can contribute an alternative to traditional style producing, and indeed can complement it. The style brand Ohne Titel only showed a dress during New York Fashion Week that explored the next of merging 3D printing with traditional style techniques.
Ohne Titel is a womenswear label by developers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill. The developers met in 1999 while studying at Parson’s School of Design and worked together for Karl Lagerfeld preceding forming their own brand. Ohne Titel got the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award for womenswear in 2009, was a finalist in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards in 2009 and 2011, and was nominated for the 2009 Textile Award. It shouldn’t be surprising that Adams and Gill turned to 3D printing for their latest project. Their brand is particularly interested in utilizing different types of technologies and techniques to turn it into personalized fabrics for the confident modern woman.
Shapeways printed Ohne Titel’s latest dress, that was sponsored by Microsoft, and interviewed the developers of their system. As Flora Gill explains:
“I love the unexpected mix of old-world and futuristic producing. We looked to chainmail structures for inspiration and elongated our ‘chains’ to manufacture a herringbone structure. It is informative to work with 3D modelers and the printing equipment to see what is possible. 3D printing in a few ways has limitless next, but it is yet quite beta. We discovered most parallels with knitting technologies. In the beginning of our careers, it was usually complicated to desktop program intricate knit programs. Now knitting machines are easily programmed and the techniques they turn it into may have been unimaginable 10 years ago. We can’t wait to see what can be possible for knitting and 3D printing in the next 10 years.”
The dress was printed in Shapeways Frosted Detail Plastic, that is informative in of itself. Most of the 3D printed garments that Shapeways has generated have utilized their Strong and Flexible Material, SLS printed nylon. Frosted Detail Plastic is additional brittle than their nylon product and is generally utilized for tiny more detailed models. But, the material is translucent and it is utilized to excellent effect in the Ohne Titel dress. In fact, the entire system of producing the dress was one-of-a-kind and highly collaborative.
When Shapeways was pitched by Ohne Titel and Microsoft to turn it into 3D printed garments for their AU16 runway show, Shapeways turned to developer Chester Dols. Dols created a few interwoven garments as part of the Eyebeam’s Computational Fashion Master Class that Shapeways sponsored. Dols’ creations were stylistically and aesthetically much like to the sketches that Ohne Titel provided to Shapeways, that led them to tap Dols for the project.
Chester Dols with his garment at Re-Making Patterns, 2015
Textile pattern by Dols for the Computational Fashion Master Class
Closeup render of the Ohne Titel Dress. (Image courtesy of Ohne Titel)
Closeup of the Ohne Titel dress. (Image courtesy of Ohne Titel)
Dols has a background in architecture and uses Rhino, Grasshopper and Python scripting to turn it into his intricate creations. His interest in parametric create led to his participation in the Computational Fashion Master Class, and the rest as they say is history. Certainly, the Ohne Titel dress was a standout at New York Fashion Week. Dols was interviewed by Shapeways and had a few informative things to say of his creations and the next of 3D printed textiles.
3d printing is yet in its infancy and so is the concept of 3d printed textiles. Similar to I described preceding, I’m waiting for industries, technologies, and science to converge. When we can that successfully and seamlessly print with multiple materials, that is when things can get informative. Right now, there are printing equipment that print with two materials; take for instance Shapeways’ frosted more detail plastic, that prints a wax assist material and a polymer resin at the same time. But what if the 2nd or third material is not a assist material? If we can get 3D printing equipment working like a loom, weaving together most materials at once to turn it into a ‘polyblend’ print with complicated graded materiality, that is when a new style can emerge.
It’ll be informative to see the imact of 3D printing on the style world in the next ten years. Will new materials and printing technologies upset the status quo? Only time can tell. I guess it all depends on how far developers are caning to hustle the boundaries.
Below are a few additional images of the dress of the runway show:
(Image courtesy of Ohne Titel)
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