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3D Design & Printing for the Fashion Industry: Interview with Chester Dols

by • February 16, 2016 • No Comments

we can be interviewing Chester Dols, the 3D modeling mastermind behind Ohne Titel’s 3D printed dress that
debuted yesterday at New York Fashion Week.

Chester Dols, a graduate of the Shapeways & Eyebeam Computational Fashion Master Class, is a talented 3D modeler and developer that
combines in Rhino, Grasshopper, Maya & python scripts to generate interwoven garments.

unspecifiedChester Dols with his piece at Re-Making Patterns, 2015

Earlier this year, when Shapeways was approached by Ohne Titel + Microsoft with a pitch to turn it into 3D printed garments for their AU16 runway show, we thought to ourselves; who may be a excellent 3D developer fit for this project? After appearing at the initially sketches, we saw stylistic and aesthetic much like
ities to Chester’s work, and accomplished he may be thoughtl
fit for the project.

Screen Shot 2016-02-17 at 10.35.33 AM

Final 3D Printed Knit Dress, Photos Courtesy of Ohne Titel

Within this blog post, we can learn of Chet’s journey of architecture to style, and what inspired him to take traditional architectural parametric create applications and re-conceptualize those approaches to create for the human body.

Screen Shot 2016-02-16 at 9.07.59 PM copy
Close up render of Ohne Titel Dress, Photos Courtesy of Ohne Titel

Tell us a little bit of yourself: Who are you? What’s your background? Where/when did you get started 3D modeling?

I am an interdisciplinary developer may already
based in Brooklyn, NY. My background and education is in architecture where I utilized
3D modeling to sketch and communicate my thoughts.

What inspired you to start 3D modeling?

I’m not certain
that came initially, the practice or the inspiration to practice, but I understand
3d modeling has become a effortless part of how I ponder
, sketch, and create thoughts.

At what point did you learn of computational style? How did you find out of it, and what did you find attractive of it?

Whilst studying architecture in college, I had a sturdy
interest in parametric, computational create. Studio mainly focutilized
on how computation applied to the scale of the assembling
and the assembling
envelop, but I was given the accident through an independent study to ponder
of computation as it applied to the body. I ended up creating a easy algorithm over a semester that allowed me to turn it into “tailored” clothing based on a series of meacertain
d inputs. The project, I accomplished later, was an exploration into the basic thought of graded patternmaking, a system
inside the style industry to streamline sizing and clothing fit.

Screen Shot 2016-02-16 at 8.59.58 PMParametric textile patterns created
by Chet for our Computational Fashion Class

Now that
you’ve worked in the “3D Printed Fashion” space for a bit, what are your opinions of field? E.g – What do you ponder
are a few of the largest
obstacles for style developers moving into the digital space and vice versa?

The system
and methodology of style is so various to fields that rely heavily on 3d modeling to turn it into and materialize their thoughts. In style, you work with fabric, paper, pencil, scissors, and draping tape to create and create. Furtheradditional, fabric is not like a nurb surface or polymesh, it has most
physical and structural characteristics that
affect its performance (ie. knits, wovens, jacquards, cotton, silk, polyester, polyblends, etc.). I’m not certain
if style developers or the the additive making industry has additional obstacles. It may be harsh for a style developer to jump into a modeling space and turn it into a fewthing that
is printable, but I ponder
it can be additional harsh for 3d printed materials to reach the sophistication of the most
various types of textiles may already
out there. That being said, there is so most
things taking place right now and sooner or later I believe these industries and technologies can all converge and turn it into quite
attractive things. For me, developers and engineers experimenting with this kind of innovation are the ponder
ers major us into in the next.

How do you see this field expanding in the next? Is there anything you are
appearing forward to?

3d printing is yet in its infancy and so is the concept of 3d printed textiles. Similar to I described preceding, I’m waiting for industries, technologies, and science to converge. When we can that successfully and seamlessly print with multiple materials, that
is when things can get informative
. Right now, there are printing equipment that print with two materials; take for instance Shapeways’ frosted more detail plastic, that prints a wax assist material and a polymer resin at the same time. But what if the 2nd or third material is not a assist material? If we can get 3d printing equipment working like a loom, weaving together most
materials at once to turn it into a “polyblend” print with harsh graded materiality, that
’s when a new style can emerge.

Do you have any advice for developers appearing to dive into this space?

Take inspiration of all things, and appear to culture and things that
may already
exist to manufacture new and new creates. My creates appear to architectural joints, knits, wovens, and chainmail and I take inspiration of both the effortless and synthetic. Think beyond the form of the body, and quite
like a textile developer; consider the touch, the texture, and the performance of your textile and garment.

What are a few brands, developers or artists that
inspire you?

Faustine Steinmetz (textile and style developer), Jaime Hayon (product developer), New Territories (architecture), David Altmejd (artist), Walter Van Beirendonck (style developer), C-Fabriek (product create), Neri Oxman (architect and ponder
er), Raf Simons (style developer), Vetements (style), SuperStudio (architecture), Moebius (illustrator) …. I may go on and on….

If there were zero limitations for this innovation, what may you manufacture?

Ok, so there is this scene in the 5th Element, directed by Luc Besson, where they 3d print Leeloo (Milla Jovovich) of a strand of her DNA taken of the remnants of her hand. If our innovation reaches that
point, where we aren’t just printing an object with one material, but objects and subjects with infinite elements, compounds, and materials, I may totally print a puppy or puppy-cat hybrid or a fewthing. Not certain
if I stand by that
ethically, but you are
asking a hypothetical. Crazy thing is, researchers are may already
doing a fewthing much like
by printing with stem cells to print functional organs.

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